A few more natural wonders of the Lake District

To avoid a blog as long as Tolstoy’s “War and Peace” I have been selective and will start with....

Easedale Tarn

Easedale Tarn – a deservedly popular destination reached easily from Grasmere. The last time I was there I came via the summits of Silver Howe and Blea Rigg on a beautiful sunny day. The emerald green grass sloped from the surrounding fells into the crystal blue tarn that glittered in the sunshine and tiny fish swam just beneath the surface. It was a day for paddling so that is just what I did – wading out to a large rock and watching the world go by. Easedale Tarn is all the more worth visiting for the walk alongside....

Sourmilk Gill

Sourmilk Gill – which epitomises all that is right with rainfall as it’s at its best when the cascades are gushing fiercely over the dark rocks and crashing in a cacophony to the water below. The famous waterfalls of Aira Force and Stock Ghyll Force may be beautiful and attract people from far and wide but for me, the cascades of Sour Milk Gill top the bill.

From waterfalls to caves – starting with the Priesthole Cave on the higher slopes of Dove Crag above Brothers Water. It is a cave you can genuinely describe as having “jaws” as the jagged rocks around look like the jaws of a shark. The views across the fells to Ullswater are superb and there is a book for visitors to sign inside (and sometimes even a chocolate bar to provide sustenance as it is a popular place to wild camp). My last visited ended up with me doing a rather elegant but unplanned roly poly but that's another story...

Priesthole cave

Inside Rydal cav

Rydal Caves are at a much lower level and within easy reach of Rydal Water. I found these on a low-level walk about ten years ago and have returned on several occasions, most recently with my mum. The largest cave is the type of cave that fairy tales are written about. It is dark and vast with a pool of water inside that has stepping stones across it and every word and movement echoes. I can’t wait to take my nephews to see them on their next visit.

I am addicted to climbing mountains so once again I had to include one. This time Seathwaite Fell. The lowest fell you can get to from the hamlet of Seathwaite in Borrowdale. Whilst others head to the giddy heights of Scafell Pike or Great Gable from the same destination, much less effort gets you to the summit of Seathwaite with its stunning views across Borrowdale and Derwent Water to Skiddaw and Blencathra and the intimate views of the more adventurous fells that surround it. Never underestimate the lower fells – they can be just as captivating as the higher ones.

The view from Seathwaite Fell

Once again, this is subjective but that is the beauty and joy of the Lake District - there are so many wonderful places to choose from. If you have others then please share them.

Read A few natural wonders of the Lake District here....

A Lake, Cave & Tumble

Brothers Water

I have been fascinated to see photos of a cave on the slopes of Dove Crag called the “Priests’ Hole” as the photos from inside show extensive views across mountains and valleys beyond and the cave itself looks eerie.  It is marked on Ordnance Survey maps and I was determined to go and see if for myself. 

Cascade on Dovedale Beck

After consulting an expert I had my route planned, starting at the small lake called Brothers Water near the village of Hartsop.  Brothers Water used to be called Broad Water but the name was changed in the 19^th century when two brothers tragically drowned there.  The sister of the famous Lakeland poet William Wordsworth, Dorothy Wordsworth (a poet in her own right) referred to it as a “glittering, lively lake” and that is just how it looked as I walked along the path beside it with tree branches hanging over.

Taking time to admire the flora (view stop)

The walk up the valley towards Dove Crag was beautiful with the rippling streams and many cascades of Dovedale Beck and the imposing crags getting closer.  It was a lovely place to be that day.  The gentle incline after a couple of miles turned into a steep final ascent to the cave however!  From a distance, it did not look like a route was possible up the scree slope but fortunately an old stone-pitched path was still in existence and whilst it did not lessen the gradient, it did make for easier climbing.  The path to the cave is off from the main path and an erratic boulder marks the spot to turn off and you can see the mouth of the cave from there.  A short scramble later and I had arrived at the cave.

"Priest's Hole" Cave

Looking from the Jaws of the Cave

It was just as striking as I had imagined with the dark jaws of the cave leading to views down the valley and across the fells that were every bit as lovely as I had hoped.  Even though it was a bit cloudy, it was mesmerising.  Having mastered the timer on my camera, I even managed to include myself in one of the photos.  The cave is natural but a stone wall has been constructed over part of the front for additional shelter.  There was evidence of camping activity inside such as candles and some matting but it was all neatly stacked and someone had also left a book for people visiting the cave to sign – I signed on the very back page as the rest of it was full.  Mission accomplished!

However, I decided to continue the walk onto Dove Crag summit and as I could not see a clear route from where I was, I dropped back down to the main path near the boulder.  After Dove Crag I headed to Hart Crag which was only a short distance away.  Both these fells are part of the Fairfield Horseshoe and I had not been on them since the “Mystery of the Rucksack” incident back in February!  The sun even started to emerge as I sat on Hart Crag having lunch and whilst it was cold for July, it was a great day for walking.  I headed off over the fell Hartsop Above How.  This is not one of the most frequented fells in the Lake District but the ridge route over the top is gentle and there are excellent views of the surrounding crags and valleys and down into Hartsop.

View Down the Valley

The final part of my route took me off the side of Hartsop above How to return to the shores of Brothers Water on a grassy path.  This was the most straightforward part of the walk.  Or so I thought.  However, I lost the path.  The map and GPS said there was a right of way where I was but there was certainly no path – just a lot of bracken!  I could just about see another path further down the slope so putting thoughts of bugs and snakes to one side, I decided to head through the thick bracken to the path.  This was a mistake as when I took my first step, I tripped over a rock I had not seen and fell forward in what was actually a rather graceful roly poly movement and ended up a few feet further down my route than originally intended with bracken in my hair and sitting in a little muddy stream.  I sat there for a few minutes wondering what on earth had happened (but secretly impressed that I can still do a roly poly) and then managed to get up, brush myself down and join the actual path with a flick of the hair.  So much for glamorous walking!

Brothers Water & Surrounding Fells

The short walk to the car-park from there was uneventful (I am pleased to say) and after changing out of my rather wet and muddy trousers and removing the final traces of bracken from my hair, I headed off to Glenridding for a well-deserved drink.  A great walk but next time I will attempt to do it without the roly poly!

Hartsop