The Coledale Horseshoe (finally!)

18 months after the “Not quite the Coledale Horseshoe” incident, I ventured back to the area. This time I was without a large group of friends but had the lovely Tilly for company. 

Scrambling up Grizedale Pike

The Coledale Horseshoe from Braithwaite is a walk of approximately 11 miles and 1,250 metres of ascent (depending on which fells you include). I was planning on the whole horseshoe but was going to take each mountain at a time and make my decisions as I went along. 

We set off from the small car-park near Braithwaite at the foot of Grizedale Pike with tantalising patches of blue sky scattered across the horizon but large clumps of cloud threatening to hide the views. It is safe to say that much of the ascent on this route is steep and before long I was taking regular view stops up the grassy slope. The views to Skiddaw, Bassenthwaite and to other parts of the Coledale Horseshoe were lovely and the cloud gave the whole area a mysterious look. At one point as I looked back down the mountain, the cloud filled the valley on my right, threatening to engulf us but it seemed to get “caught” on the ridge and just stayed where it was. The path goes on the edge of the Hospital Plantation, so-called because of the old isolation hospital that has been turned into a hotel.

Swirling mists on the ascent

The good thing about a steep ascent is you get rewarded with far-reaching views very quickly. However, as grass turned to rocks and I inched my way up the final scramble, I did comment to Tilly (an excellent listener) that perhaps Grizedale Pike would be enough for one day and we would do the Coledale Horseshoe another time. I also made a mental note that perhaps the “Not quite the Coledale Horseshoe” route had merits after all (given this was where we had missed Grizedale Pike altogether). The moment I stepped onto the summit though all thoughts of giving up there were gone. The views across to Hopegill Head, Whinlatter and the rest of the route ahead were spectacular. Rolling layers of mountains spread out in all directions.

After a brief coffee stop next to a random fence post, we headed off to Hopegill Head, which is only a short stroll away but the path gives you a view into the valley towards Hobcarton. The cloud came back again here but only briefly as the sun was starting to melt it away. I was tempted to add Whiteside to the walk at this point as the narrow ridge between the two mountains is one of the best in the Lake District in my view but decided it would be too much for one day. Yes – this was the same person who only 20 minutes before had almost given up before the first summit so the fact I was even considering it was astonishing!

Crummock Water & Mellbreak from Grasmoor

We pressed on to Coledale Hause and up the path towards the dip between Grasmoor and Crag Hill. This was decision time. Should I include Grasmoor on the route? The initial ascent looked steep but I hadn’t been on Grasmoor since I climbed the screes from Rannerdale (a long story) and it would give views to Crummock Water and Buttermere so off we headed. The sun cast a warm buttery glow across the fells and Tilly scampered around as happy as anything. 

It was definitely worth the additional height and distance. We had the summit to ourselves and had lunch looking over Crummock Water. I stared mesmerised at the surrounding fells and Tilly stared mesmerised at my ham sandwich. 

Taking it easy

The next fell was Wandope. I have been on Wandope several times before on different routes and I am always captured by the ridge of Crag Hill from there and the view of Addacombe Hole. The path curves around the ridge from the Crag Hill path to the summit and it is on a slope so it gives a very dramatic feeling to an otherwise quite nondescript fell. Our fourth summit of the day and we were still going strong.

The path to Crag Hill was very straightforward and is lined by cairns. The summit is nothing spectacular but what is spectacular is the ridge between Crag Hill and Sail. This narrows in places in an arête with a few scrambles adding a little frisson to the walk. I always keep a close eye on Tilly at these points but she has four-paw drive and I think was a mountain goat in a previous life as she takes it all in her stride and usually just turns around wondering why I am taking so long. A rocky scramble up the opposite slope brought us to the summit of Sail, our final summit of the day. 

Still taking it easy

Given the arête and scramble up to it, the summit is surprisingly just a grassy dome, easily missed as you have to divert from the path. What it lacks in interest here though, it makes up for in the views to Skiddaw and Blencathra and Grizedale Pike. Its grassy slopes also make an excellent place to sit down and soak up these views. With the sun still shining, we sat there for ages just gazing ahead.

Grizedale Pike

Heading back over the other side of Sail, we then took the path down to Force Crag Mine and the mine road. You can add Outerside and Barrow to the Horseshoe back to Braithwaite but we were both feeling like we had done enough for one day and the walk back was still a good three miles even without additional summits. Tilly enjoyed a splash in the stream as we arrived on the mine road and I am always reminded of a scene from a John Wayne film when I see the mine buildings. They are reminiscent of the Wild West scenes.

Force Crag Mine

A gentle stroll along the mine road brought us back to the car-park tired but very happy walkers. An excellent route for a full day walking and it was nice to do the actual Coledale Horseshoe at last!

There are lots of places to eat or stay in the Braithwaite and Keswick area - have a look at the Go Lakes website.

Lest We Forget: Remembrance 2013

A frosty start from Honister

The crowds coiled their way around the slopes of Green Gable like a rainbow-coloured ribbon and the snow-capped peaks sparkled in the sunshine like polished icing. It was a perfect day to be heading to Great Gable for Remembrance Sunday and as ever, the crowds were out in force.

Great Gable was gifted to the National Trust by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club. In 1924, a bronze memorial was placed on the summit cairn to remember those members of the Club who died in the First World War. Each year on Remembrance Sunday, hundreds of people head to the summit, where a short service is held to remember all those who have given so much for our freedom. 

A colourful ribbon of people

On Remembrance Sunday it is all about the occasion and the atmosphere rather than the views but the long-distance views towards Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale, Blencathra and the Langdale Pikes were spectacular and certainly added to the atmosphere. 

I was walking to the summit with a few friends, Ray, Andy, Stuart, Jimmy and Cindy and we chose the route up via Green Gable from Honister. I have been on the summit of Great Gable many times but each time I have been unfortunate with the clouds and not seen the views. Today looked like I was finally going to see what I had been missing. 

Buttermere Valley & a cloud banner

We kept a steady pace as we skirted the slopes of Brandreth and towards Green Gable. I kept stopping to take photos as the views that started to open up were sublime. The warm reds and golds of autumn were spreading across the mountain slopes in a striking contrast to the blue sky and the snowy peaks. Buttermere Valley had a cloud all the way across it as though the peaks of High Stile and Grasmoor were holding a banner of cotton wool.

Great Gable in the cloud with a queue of people

Scrambling over rocks and boulders, we reached the summit of Green Gable and saw several other routes converging from the Brandreth, Aaron Slack and Moses Trod paths. From above we must have looked like ants heading to an anthill. Sadly at this point, the cloud came in and it looked as though Great Gable would cling onto its cloud factory once more.

The last section of path to the summit of Great Gable is a rocky scramble and with so many people heading the same way it becomes a bottle neck and you actually queue to get there. I think this must be the only occasion that queuing to get on a mountain not just happens but is totally accepted as part of the experience. It really is part of the experience though and there is always a sense of a shared aim.

Colourful crowds

This year, with the ice and snow, the scramble was tricky in places and the going was slow and often not elegant but before long we were arriving at the summit along with those who had made the ascent from Styhead and Wasdale. With multi-coloured hats and jackets, it was a colourful place to be and there must have been several hundred people there. At this point, arriving rather out of breath from a swift ascent from Honister, our friend Phil joined us.

We will never forget

With the cloud enclosing us, a few words were spoken by a member of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club and then the two minute silence was held. It was thought-provoking and memorable, with only the occasional dog barking. At the end of the silence the crowd applauded and it sounded like deep rolling thunder rumbling up the valley as there were so many people. It was simply awe-inspiring.

Views at last!

The sun was trying desperately to burn through the clouds so as the crowds dispersed we decided to wait on the summit for a while to see if the views appeared. We were not disappointed. The clouds slowly cleared towards Wastwater and the Wasdale fells of Kirk Fell, Pillar and Yewbarrow. The deep blue of Wastwater in the emerald green valley was beautiful. The Scafells and Langdale Pikes slowly emerged from the grey and finally I saw what I had been missing for so long. Great Gable has some of the most stunning views I have ever seen, especially at this time of year.

Wasdale

We headed off the summit, which was much quieter by then and down the tricky slope. I donned my micro-spikes for the occasion and got to the bottom unscathed. We returned via Green Gable again and back to Honister. A really lovely walk with spectacular views but more importantly a superb and poignant occasion. 

At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.

See more photos here

Read about Remembrance 2012 here

Diary of a YHA Novice....

The last time I stayed in a youth hostel was whilst backpacking in Australia in 1999. I remember the enormous dorms, having to bring my own sheets, sharing a pokey little kitchen with a toaster that looked rather like a sandy beach with all the crumbs of residents-past lingering in it and queuing to use the communal showers that had dubious plastic sheeting separating them. I had a fantastic time in Australia but YHA’s were not somewhere I was planning on ever going back to. I do after all like my creature comforts.

So it was with trepidation that 14 years later I walked into the Ambleside YHA. I could not fault the setting – the hostel is on the shore of Windermere. Literally a few metres walk takes you from the front door to the water’s edge, where the gentle ripples lap the shore.

A beautiful setting

My first impressions were excellent. The hostel has recently been refurbished and it turns out things have changed rather a lot in the last 14 years! I received a warm welcome from the receptionist and as I was filling in the form and being given my keys I peered to my left and clocked the bar for future reference! Keys in hand, I headed up the stairs to the top floor in search of my room. Along the corridor were rows of bathrooms and individual showers – I was relieved to see there were plenty of them and they looked sparklingly clean.

The Room

So the room. The Ambleside YHA is a large hostel and even has a selection of en-suite rooms but I opted for a bed in a small dorm. There were two bunk beds, a basin, a portable heater and large wooden lockers for any bags and valuables. The beds all had matching green pillows and duvets, which were ironed and looked inviting. As I was on the top floor, I was amongst the eaves, which gave the room character and whilst the room was small it wasn’t pokey. The views from the window were superb across the lake.

The Bar!

It was early evening so after selecting a bottom bunk I headed down to the bar. And what a bar! It would not have been out of place in a nice hotel. There was a good selection of beers, spirits and wines, including prosecco (a personal favourite) a restaurant, conservatory area and outside decking. I settled into a sofa with a glass of wine, connected to the wifi network and watched a rather cloudy sunset over Windermere, with the imposing fells behind getting darker and darker as they disappeared into the night sky. I have stayed in expensive hotels that could not boast such a setting.

The staff were friendly and it was clear the restaurant itself was a destination of choice as several people were staying elsewhere but had come for the food and ambience. I am not surprised. It is excellent value and having tried the chilli con carne, I was impressed. I would definitely come back to the restaurant again and those visiting on warm sunny days can take advantage of the outdoor space. There is a self-catering area as well for those who want to be self-sufficient.

A room with a view

Little things matter and next to each bed was an individual light and a socket for a phone charger with a little platform to lay your mobile phone to charge over night. I had the dorm to myself for the two nights I stayed. I was worried the corridor would be noisy with people coming and going from the dorms and whilst there was the occasional door banging more loudly earlier on in the night, I was not disturbed and slept really well.

In the morning there were no queues for the shower (which was just across the corridor) and the superb view from the bedroom window even though cloudy was one that many hotels would covet. I headed out for the day with a spring in my step.

Ambleside YHA

So my youth hostel journey has begun and so far I am pleasantly surprised. Having not considered YHA’s for many years, my opinion of them has changed dramatically. Having started the journey with trepidation, I now find myself looking forward to my next stay with pleasure. Now which one to choose?

A restaurant with a view

I am working in partnership with the YHA to encourage people to get out and about and if (like me) you haven't thought about youth hostels for a while to perhaps think again....
Find out more about the YHA on their website 

Through the Clouds

Always something to look at

The Lake District is beautiful in all weathers. Sometimes even when the clouds are out in force, the wind is blowing and it looks as though it could rain any minute, I still want to get out on the fells. It isn’t always about the long-distance views (stunning though they are).

So it was one morning when I headed out to climb Lord’s Seat and Barf from the Whinlatter Forest Visitor Centre. On this route, much of the walk is amongst the forest and with the weather uncertain this seemed a good form of shelter (besides, starting from the top of the pass meant I was already a good way up the mountain!)

Sheltering in the trees

I made my way along the forest tracks up towards Ullister Hill. With the clouds swirling around, the tall trees seemed very eerie next to me and they came and went like shadows in the mist. Without views, I paid more attention to the beautiful purple heather, yellow gorse and tall grasses around me. The mist had left tiny water droplets like crystals on them and spider webs glistened as they swayed in the breeze.

"View" from the summit

After about a mile and a half I emerged from the trees and before long, I had reached the summit of Lord’s Seat. Apparently the name comes from a natural rock seat just below the summit but today was not a day to explore too long as the wind was becoming quite feisty. When amongst the trees it was barely noticeable so my decision to try a forest route was a good one. 

Misty view of the "mound"

After admiring the cloud for a few minutes, I headed off towards Barf into yet more cloud. I passed the imaginatively named “mound” (according to the Ordnance Survey map). Even in the cloud I couldn’t argue with that apt description as a “mound” it certainly was! 

The view from Barf was much the same as from Lord’s Seat when I arrived on the summit but then, briefly, the clouds blew north and a misty view down to Bassenthwaite suddenly appeared and almost as quickly disappeared. I wasn’t expecting any views at all so this made it even more beautiful. 

A glimpse of Bassenthwaite from Barf

Ever improving views

I came back through the forest and the lower I got the thinner the cloud became and the views to the valley, with a patchwork of fields got better and better. The tracks twisted and turned through the trees until I arrived back at the Visitor Centre. If the weather had been better I probably would not have chosen that walk and I would have missed out. The forest walk was lovely, much nicer than I thought it would be and I will definitely return regardless of cloud!