Tuesday, 4 September 2012

The Langdales & The Lurcher Puppy


Balancing Rock on Stickle Ghyll
I love walking on my own, as a couple or in large groups.  I like the solitude on my own and I am very independent but I like the sharing and laughter with others as well and I am lucky to have a lot of family and friends to walk with (whether they feel they are quite so lucky being dragged on long walks is another matter – one of my best friends would say not!)  Having taken my friend’s family to Blackmoss Pot in the Langstrath Valley for some wild swimming a few days before, they were keen for me to arrange a longer mountain walk and I was happy to oblige – I chose for the occasion the Langdale Pikes via Stickle Tarn as the cascades and waterfalls on the way up the Stickle Ghyll and the rugged background to Stickle Tarn is I think one of the most wonderful parts of the Lake District.
Catching the sunshine

Getting a lift across the Ghyll
It turned out to be a beautiful afternoon and we set off from the National Trust car-park at the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel (noting Sticklebarn Tavern for the end of the walk) in high spirits.  We were four adults, two children and one Lurcher puppy called Tully in total and it was Tully’s first mountain walk.  The route up Stickle Ghyll was beautiful.  The white water danced on the dark rocks and caught the sunshine like diamond buds opening up in the spring.  One rock was in the middle of the Ghyll and it looked like it could fall any moment but I bet it will still be there in a hundred years.  I could have watched it all day but the route ahead beckoned and we headed up the path (created by the “Fix the Fells” team) towards Stickle Tarn.  Tully was leading the way and with the occasional “how much further until the tarn Tanya” (childhood flashbacks of me asking my parents “are we nearly there yet” and appreciating for the first time how annoying that might be) from the two children we made steady progress.  Here I can cheer because unlike usual, I was not at the back of the group!  Hurrah!  In fact, I was often at the front!

Pavey Ark & Stickle Tarn
As we crossed the Ghyll, Tully was given a lift across and with one last push we made it to Stickle Tarn with the imposing crag of Pavey Ark backing it.  I looked around as everyone stopped and took it in.  I knew they would love it and they did.  I was content just to soak up the atmosphere but the two children and their Dad decided to go for a wild swim!  Rather them than me that is for sure although I admire their bravery.

After the swim, a coffee break and lot of star jumps to warm up from the swim, we headed up Harrison Stickle.  This was not something the two children were delighted about the prospect of but when they knew it was not optional, they leapt to the front and headed on up.  When I am walking in this area I am always on the lookout for people heading up Jack’s Rake on Pavey Ark.  Jack’s Rake is a diagonal scramble up a route that is very dangerous.  Having done it once, I would never do it again but cannot stop myself watching others.  We spotted someone in a red waterproof about half way up and I was totally distracted the whole way up Harrison Stickle watching his or her progress.  However, there were also two sheep near the Rake having a mid afternoon graze without a care in the world!  Herdwick sheep are amazing.

Pike O'Stickle
The person in the red coat seemed to make it to the top and before long we were all on the top of Harrison Stickle looking out at the wonderful views around to the tiny Helm Crag and beyond to the Helvellyn range, the Coniston fells, Bowfell, Crinkle Crags and the many other fells surrounding us.  The summit was busy as you would expect for such a popular mountain.  Some people came and went quickly and others lingered.  Whatever their motivation though we all shared the same sense of achievement of being on a summit.

Web of Streams - Mickleden Beck
The plan had been to head down after Harrison Stickle but we decided (much to the angst of the children) to head onto Pike O’Stickle.  The last time I was on that fell it was covered in mist so there were no views at all and up close, the Pike really is a sight to behold and looks unassailable.  We found a route up though and the children found their mountain goat feet.  Tully had to sit this one out though as he was getting tired (either that or his owners were getting tired....)  On the top of Pike O’Stickle we met the man who had been climbing Jack’s Rake in the red coat.  He said there were moments when he was “terrified”.  

Tully's "carry me" eyes...
Dungeon Ghyll Force
Given Loft Crag was only a short diversion on the route back down to Dungeon Ghyll, we strolled over that mountain as well and stopped on the top to admire the view down to Mickleden Beck.  The myriad of tributaries looked like a spiders web glistening in the sunshine and we stood in awe for ages.  The homeward journey was upon us and we headed down the mountain.  Tully put on a face with eyes that said “carry me” and was promptly carried over the rocky parts (never works for me).  We walked down past Dungeon Ghyll Force and unlike the cascades of Stickle Ghyll, this waterfall is long and thin but still with a beauty of its own as it plummets in all its glory down the craggy mountain side.  As the Ghyll reaches the lower slopes near the car-park, it skates over rocks that you have to find your way across.  With the sun shining towards us, I managed to capture my own rainbow in the water.  A really wonderful moment at the end of a lovely walk that it was great to share with friends. 
More photos available here....
Creating my own rainbow...

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25 comments:

  1. What a lovely walk and you make it seem so effort-less. 'Diamond buds' great description and, of course, the gorgeous Tully

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    1. Thanks Tracey - I often think of diamonds twinkling when the sunshines on the lakes and streams.
      Tully was a master at getting a lift! Those eyes....cute puppy eyes!

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    2. They are killer puppy eyes and they are *always* going to get whatever they want!

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    3. I need to get some eyes like that! ;)

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  2. Great photos and blog. Love the sunshine on the water and the rainbow in particular.
    Jo

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    1. Thanks Jo - I ove rainbows and the sun caught the water and the camera just right!

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  3. Wonderfully written Tanya , last tome I went up there I had my dog, his leg gave out & I never made it to the top. Must go again soon :)
    & I am tempted at jacks rake , maybe one fine sunny day next year. Lol

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    1. Thanks Phil! Tilly didn't make it beyond Stickle Tarn but Tully even as a puppy was more hardened. I think Tilly would make it now though.
      I am leaving Jack's Rake for the sheep I saw!
      :-)

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  4. Love the descriptions. You tell a great story and bring it alive :)

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  5. Another wonderful post! Thank you. I thought of you the other day when we hiked at the Natural Bridge trail and finished at the waterfall. I'll post some pics when I get back to Florida. Bless you. Be safe. ;) ~ Aithne

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    1. Thanks Aithne! Can't wait to see the photos - enjoy the rest of your trip :)

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  6. A bril walk, and one I take friends on too.. http://reasonstogonorth.com/langdalewalk/.
    And my most recent post on my blog is all about walking alone!
    Alvina

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    1. Hi Alvina - yes you really see the rugged and pretty Lake District all in one walk. I will have a look at your latest blog :-)

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  7. This sounds (and looks) like just such a great day of walking. Especially like the Web of streams - Mickelden Beck photograph.

    I would love to go on a walk with you Tanya, though I think you would need to double the view stops!

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    1. Thanks Chloe - you would be most welcome. Give me a shout if you are up here. View stops are something I specialise in - "Tanya stops" are becoming famous amongst lakeland walkers! ;-)

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  8. I recently went up the Langdales again to introduce my friend Simon to some proper hills. The weather was a bit of a contrast to the day you had but we still had a whale of a time. The fact Simon could not see some of the drops probably helped as he has a thing with heights. Great blog once again

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    1. Thanks :-)
      Yes sometimes not being able to see is an advantage!
      Such a great area to walk...
      :)

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  9. What an absolutely fabulous blog. Looks like fun was had by all!! The picture of the “carry me” eyes is perfect, though Tully is justified after such a long walk = looks like he did very well for his first walk in the lakes. Great description of the walk. Don't let Tilly read this though - she might have competition for your affection.

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    1. Thanks :-)
      Shhh...don't tell Tilly (although Tilly is still my favourite...)

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  10. Sod the mountains - I want that pup!

    To each their own. It's not often one sees praise heaped on the overcrowded badly-pitched Mill (Stickle) Gill path. I hate that path - there are far nicer and quieter routes from the NDG up to Stickle Tarn.

    That gripe aside, I enjoyed reading your account of the day and your excellent photos.

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    1. Thanks! Tully is just adorable...such amazing eyes! Who could resist? He does rather steal the show.
      I like that route as I love being beside the Ghyll. It is very busy...the route down was much quieter. Pitching is always a talking point! ;)
      Thanks for commenting...

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  11. I've mixed feelings about pitched paths. If it's been done well with 'grippy' stones (not Skiddaw Slate) and if the stones are angled back a bit (rather than tipping forward downhill) then pitching provides a relatively easy and stable surface. But when it's done badly it can be dangerous especially when it's wet. That said, it is almost always better than a deep erosion scar running with water.

    The more I walk in the Lake District, the more I prefer to avoid paths (especially popular ones) altogether.

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    1. The technique has improved a lot over the last few years - Helm Crag has just been re-done and as soon as the landscaping has taken root it will look better and is much easier to walk on... I agree when they slope they are very tricky!
      Always great finding new routes though :-)

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    2. Yes, you're definitely right that the more recently pitched paths are better than the older ones.

      You mention Helm Crag. Coincidently, I walked up the the newly pitched path a few weeks back and thought it was pretty good. I was on my way to Langdale so I didn't come back down the path - but it is in descent that pitching is really put to the test.

      I was in Langdale for several days recently and found there are now good examples of pitching on both the paths up out of Mickleden (to Stake Pass and to Rossett Pass), the new sections being a great improvement over earlier efforts.

      As I say above, a pitched path is always an improvement over ugly damaging erosion scars even if, paradoxically, the latter sometimes feels less hazardous underfoot.

      I look forward to reading more of your blog articles.

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