Lest We Forget: Remembrance 2013

A frosty start from Honister

The crowds coiled their way around the slopes of Green Gable like a rainbow-coloured ribbon and the snow-capped peaks sparkled in the sunshine like polished icing. It was a perfect day to be heading to Great Gable for Remembrance Sunday and as ever, the crowds were out in force.

Great Gable was gifted to the National Trust by the Fell and Rock Climbing Club. In 1924, a bronze memorial was placed on the summit cairn to remember those members of the Club who died in the First World War. Each year on Remembrance Sunday, hundreds of people head to the summit, where a short service is held to remember all those who have given so much for our freedom. 

A colourful ribbon of people

On Remembrance Sunday it is all about the occasion and the atmosphere rather than the views but the long-distance views towards Buttermere, Crummock Water, Ennerdale, Blencathra and the Langdale Pikes were spectacular and certainly added to the atmosphere. 

I was walking to the summit with a few friends, Ray, Andy, Stuart, Jimmy and Cindy and we chose the route up via Green Gable from Honister. I have been on the summit of Great Gable many times but each time I have been unfortunate with the clouds and not seen the views. Today looked like I was finally going to see what I had been missing. 

Buttermere Valley & a cloud banner

We kept a steady pace as we skirted the slopes of Brandreth and towards Green Gable. I kept stopping to take photos as the views that started to open up were sublime. The warm reds and golds of autumn were spreading across the mountain slopes in a striking contrast to the blue sky and the snowy peaks. Buttermere Valley had a cloud all the way across it as though the peaks of High Stile and Grasmoor were holding a banner of cotton wool.

Great Gable in the cloud with a queue of people

Scrambling over rocks and boulders, we reached the summit of Green Gable and saw several other routes converging from the Brandreth, Aaron Slack and Moses Trod paths. From above we must have looked like ants heading to an anthill. Sadly at this point, the cloud came in and it looked as though Great Gable would cling onto its cloud factory once more.

The last section of path to the summit of Great Gable is a rocky scramble and with so many people heading the same way it becomes a bottle neck and you actually queue to get there. I think this must be the only occasion that queuing to get on a mountain not just happens but is totally accepted as part of the experience. It really is part of the experience though and there is always a sense of a shared aim.

Colourful crowds

This year, with the ice and snow, the scramble was tricky in places and the going was slow and often not elegant but before long we were arriving at the summit along with those who had made the ascent from Styhead and Wasdale. With multi-coloured hats and jackets, it was a colourful place to be and there must have been several hundred people there. At this point, arriving rather out of breath from a swift ascent from Honister, our friend Phil joined us.

We will never forget

With the cloud enclosing us, a few words were spoken by a member of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club and then the two minute silence was held. It was thought-provoking and memorable, with only the occasional dog barking. At the end of the silence the crowd applauded and it sounded like deep rolling thunder rumbling up the valley as there were so many people. It was simply awe-inspiring.

Views at last!

The sun was trying desperately to burn through the clouds so as the crowds dispersed we decided to wait on the summit for a while to see if the views appeared. We were not disappointed. The clouds slowly cleared towards Wastwater and the Wasdale fells of Kirk Fell, Pillar and Yewbarrow. The deep blue of Wastwater in the emerald green valley was beautiful. The Scafells and Langdale Pikes slowly emerged from the grey and finally I saw what I had been missing for so long. Great Gable has some of the most stunning views I have ever seen, especially at this time of year.

Wasdale

We headed off the summit, which was much quieter by then and down the tricky slope. I donned my micro-spikes for the occasion and got to the bottom unscathed. We returned via Green Gable again and back to Honister. A really lovely walk with spectacular views but more importantly a superb and poignant occasion. 

At the going down of the sun and in the morning, we will remember them.

See more photos here

Read about Remembrance 2012 here

Lest We Forget: Remembrance on Great Gable

The annual Remembrance gathering on Great Gable is something I had heard a lot about, even before I moved to the Lake District.  I really wanted to be part of it in 2012 as what better way could there be to remember those who have given so much for us?  I joined a small group of friends from previous Twitter walks – Paul, Sian, Jim, Phil and Gary at Honister, with Tilly the black Labrador keeping us company and looking forward to being spoilt by everyone.

Several people had told me how popular this gathering was but I was surprised to see by 8am so many cars in the car-parks there and already a long snaking line of people making their way up the various routes to Great Gable.  It was a beautiful morning with sunshine and mist and the autumn browns reds and golds still holding on for their last hurrah.  I realised as I arrived that I had forgotten my water bottles (too busy packing Tilly’s treats) but decided it would be ok as it was a cold day and I had coffee.  This is not the first time I have forgotten water (see my “The Knight & the Water” story) – clearly I had not learnt my lesson.

Our route up was via Green Gable so we headed off, Tilly leading the way.  I walk on my own a lot, as a couple and with larger groups and I enjoy them all in their own way but this was something utterly unique.  The volume of people heading to Great Gable was amazing – there must have been 30-40 people nearby for much of the route and there was a real sense of friendliness and sharing a common goal.  I even managed to overtake people (rare for me as I am usually quite slow) and found myself on occasions at the front of the group! 

Tilly's "forgive me" eyes (photo by Phil)

As we neared Green Gable, I was becoming incredibly thirsty – it may have been a cold day but walking is thirsty work regardless.  Without much hope, I asked the group if any of them had a spare water bottle.  Gary fortunately did (thank you!) and at that moment, it tasted better than Dom Peringon would have done (I reserve the right to change my mind about that once the memory has faded though).  Tilly was enjoying herself thoroughly but she is not the most considerate walker as she tends to stop unannounced or barge passed to get to the next person with treats.  This seemed to be Phil as Tilly bounded up to him and tripped him up! Phil fell forwards and bruised his knee and cracked the filter of his lens.  He was fortunately very forgiving and one look from those deep brown soulful “Tilly eyes” still got her a dog biscuit.  She is a master I will give her that!  

Mass scrambling

On we went to the summit of Green Gable heading into the mist and then down to Windy Gap and up the final ascent to Great Gable.  Here it became rather a bottle-neck as several paths merge around Green Gable and at Windy Gap and the path from there to Great Gable is made of rock and scree and takes careful negotiating.  With so many people, it was a slow but steady climb.  At least I did not need to declare “Tanya stops” though.  Tilly found her mountain paws and she jumped and scrambled up the rocks and we finally arrived at the summit.

The busy summit

I have never seen so many people on or near a summit in my life.  Scafell Pike is nearly always busy and mountains like Catbells, Loughrigg and the Langdale Pikes usually have a steady stream of visitors.  At this moment on Great Gable however, there were literally hundreds of people all waiting on the top and for the next half an hour, probably more than another hundred arrived.  We were scattered all over the summit and some had even brought tents up for the occasion (I liked the pink and yellow one best).  Other people we knew came to say hello as they arrived, some from other valleys and Tilly thought Ray was Father Christmas as he came bearing gifts of dog treats.

There was only ever a fleeting view to other mountains and valleys but it did not matter.  We were all here for one reason only – to remember those who have given so much for our defence and freedom.  Those people who have made sure that all of us, whoever we are have the freedom to enjoy such a beautiful place.  It was very moving to be part of such a gathering and peering through the mist to the occasional tiny glimpse of other summits and tarns, I felt very fortunate and privileged.

View to Buttermere, Crummock & Mellbreak

A few words were said by a representative of the Fell and Rock Climbing Club and we observed the two minute silence.  Hardly a dog barked during that time.  It was a short moment but poignant and then we all began to make our way down.  Again the scramble was slow to get to windy gap but after that, it was a lovely walk without anything too arduous back over Green Gable, Brandreth and Grey Knotts.  On Brandreth, the mist really cleared and we had views all the way down the Ennerdale and Buttermere valleys.  Mellbreak holds special memories for me so seeing it in the distance was wonderful.  Great Gable looked menacing looking back with its dark crags on display.

Tilly finding her mountain paws....

Between Brandreth and Grey Knotts is a little tarn and whilst it was a hundred yards away, Tilly decided she was ready for a swim and bounded towards it, landing with a not so elegant but very enthusiastic splash.  At this moment you know she is a true Labrador.  After hauling herself out she decided to expend some of that pent up energy (5 summits are clearly not enough for her nowadays) and started sprinting all around us and making wide circles on the grassy fell side and rushing up to us and diverting at the last second.  At this point, a male black Labrador arrived and they gambolled around together as we made our way back down to Honister.  The only thing that distracted Tilly was Jim opening some crisps.

On the summit of Brandreth

About three hundred yards from the car-park, I was chatting away and promptly slipped backwards and ended up in a not very elegant “splat” on the ground.  Not my best look (although nothing damaged except my ego) and fortunately Phil had not managed to capture the moment on camera.  Dragging myself back up with all the dignity I could muster, I managed to get back down to the car-park without further incident.  

A really poignant and memorable day – Remembrance Sunday on Great Gable.  Lest we forget.

Friends, Gables & Tarns

I have been made to feel very welcome in the Lake District and made many new friends in my first few weeks.  Gina and her husband Dave are two of them and through knowing Gina (a social butterfly who makes legendary chocolate brownies) I joined a Twitter walking group on a Sunday morning in July to climb Green Gable and Great Gable.  A “tweet-up”!  I had the advantage of a lift from Grasmere with Gina, Dave and Si and we met Ray (our route master), Phil, Bruce, Gary and Ray’s dog Holly (‘The Beast’) in Seathwaite, Borrowdale.

Sour Milk Gill

Seathwaite is the wettest inhabited place in England (there is even a slate sign highlighting this) and there is even a cottage there called “Rain Gauge Cottage”.  Given the recent weather, this did not bode well but as we started it was warm and there were no rain clouds apparent although the tops were a bit misty so we headed off and straight up the steep Sour Milk Gill path full of anticipation for the walk ahead.

Gina & Me - Seathwaite Valley behind

I have never claimed to be the fastest walker in the world (and there are plenty who can vouch for that) but as it turns out, I think I just may be the slowest walker ever!  The route up the Gill was steep and I had to stop often for a breather (I mean to take photos) whilst most of the others powered ahead with Gina leading the way.  Ray and Phil kept me company and gallantly tried to make it look as though it was not just me being slow.  There were lovely views of the Gill and the valley below however so stopping to look at them was totally acceptable and thank goodness Holly decided to go for a swim in the Gill at one point (a good photo/breather opportunity).  I did eventually get to the top of the steep part and the views to the valley were superb– this is why the pain of ascent is worth it and I love the photo of Gina and me.

The first fell was to be Green Gable and the route took us along the Gillercomb path.  I was still bringing up the rear and trying to avoid being captured in too many of Phil’s photos looking exhausted and having a bad hair day (not the look I aspire to in photos).  Gina and Dave started sprinting (yes sprinting) up the last part of the ascent to Green Gable (I will gloss over my thoughts about that other than to say we possibly have the wrong people in our Olympic team) and before long we had arrived at our first summit, which was free of cloud.  There were excellent views down to the surrounding valleys including Buttermere and Mellbreak (one of my favourite fells) and great views of the closer fells even though the tops of them were hidden in cloud.

Great Gable & Green Gable on a sunnier day

One of the recurring themes given my new role in Fix the Fells was everyone commenting on path erosion and where the Fix the Fells teams needed to focus next.  Seems like we are going to be pretty busy!  It was great everyone was so supportive of the work though and I apologise if I bored everyone to tears with my new knowledge of erosion, path maintenance and techniques to repair paths but I am sure somebody asked at some point and I feel very enthusiastic about it (as you may have gathered)….  And thank you Dave for not placing that large stone on the summit cairn as I think I would have struggled to move it back despite my statement to the contrary!

Summit of Great Gable (photo by @goldenorfephoto - Phil)

Sadly Great Gable was in cloud and that was where we were headed next.  Positions restored (yes I was last again) we made the descent to Windy Gap and then up the steep scramble amongst the rocks and scree to the summit of Great Gable.  Phil had given up waiting for me and it was left to Ray to give me encouragement to the top.  But we made it! 

We sat on Great Gable in the cloud and had lunch followed by Gina’s amazing chocolate brownies.  Word had obviously got around as two guys arrived at the summit and were also fed brownies.  After reapplying lipstick (Phil will no doubt share that photo at some point) we set off down to the stretcher box (named because it does indeed hold stretchers) near Styhead Tarn.  At the stretcher box we decided to take the longer route back via Sprinkling Tarn and Grains Gill.  I must have got my second wind as I led from the front and did not hold up anybody.  In fact, I found myself in the group waiting for others to arrive!  (What kept you guys?)

Piers Gill

Sprinkling Tarn

The route between Styhead Tarn and Sprinkling Tarn is amongst some of the most rugged fells and scenery.  The deep, dark cavern of Piers Gill on the slopes of Lingmell, the rock massif of Great End towering above us and the bouldery slopes of great Gable behind combined with the gentle grassy mound of Seathwaite Fell.  It is an area I love as it looks magnificent.  Sprinkling Tarn always looks beautiful and the walk down Grains Gill, which I have not done for many years, was just a joyous ramble. 

It was great talking to everyone as well.  It is amazing how much you can have in common with people you have not met before when you share a love of something – in our case, walking the fells.  We ended our day with a drink at the Langstrath Inn where I confess I had half a bitter shandy – sorry…you can take the girl out of the south but not the south out of the girl….  A great day and some great new friends – thanks for arranging it Gina (and thanks for waiting for me Ray).

Slate Sign in Seathwaite