Piers Gill & An Orange Shovel

Wastwater (from a previous visit)

I have seen the dark craggy ravine of Piers Gill several times whilst on other walks or out with the Fix the Fells volunteers in the Lakes.  From the summit of the Styhead Pass you can see it in the distance and it looks forbidding but fascinating.  I still spend as much time as I can out on the fells as part of my Fix the Fells role so a drain run up that route from Wasdale seemed a perfect opportunity to have a closer look.  A drain run is a maintenance task to clear the path drains of any stones and debris to ensure the water is channelled away and also clear any loose stones from areas of stone-pitching.  I have done these a few times before (see “GirlFrom the South Heads North Episode 2”).  

I was with the Western Lakes National Trust team and we met at the Wasdale Campsite at 8am on a beautiful sunny day where I was promptly handed my shovel with an orange handle and my working gloves, also orange.  How very co-ordinated (although I have not yet succeeded in my mission to find a pink shovel!)  As I put on my ski jacket (it was a cold day) and backpack, I got the impression I was possibly the only person in the history of Fix the Fells that had turned up to clear drains and paths in a bright white jacket (although they were lucky I did not add my bright pink salapets to the outfit – it wasn’t quite that cold).  But, everyone is used to me now so apart from requesting sunglasses to hide the dazzle, we picked up our shovels (which had not got any lighter since the last time I carried one) and set off.

Great Gable & Kirk Fell

Regular readers of my blog will not need me to say that this drain run was a little slower with me in tow and “Tanya stops” were frequent.  But on such a glorious day, it was a perfect opportunity to admire the views.  It was quite a long walk to the first drain and we split into two groups to cover two paths.  I set off with Steve and here started my battle with the question “What is the best way to carry a shovel up a mountain?”  Now I will be honest and say that until recently, this is not a question I ever thought I would need an answer to or indeed one that I would ask.  However, I spent the first mile of the walk with the shovel in one hand being held near the metal bit then in another by the handle.  Next I tried holding it out in front and then over each shoulder but it was always in the way and heavy (and the latter option just made me want to break into a chorus of “Hi Ho!”)

Piers Gill

My mind was soon distracted by the sight of Piers Gill however.  Where it ends and the gill starts to wash over the boulders and rocks it looks like many other rocky gills.  However, as you start to look up it, you can see dark cliffs and narrow crevices that look menacing.  The further up the path you get the deeper, darker but more mesmerising the gill becomes.  Your eyes are drawn to it all the time.  It is like something out of a Stephen King novel.

One of the drains - note the co-ordinated shovel & gloves

I was soon brought back to reality though and got my shovel to work clearing a very gravelly drain.  When the water starts running through it and away from the path, you get a real sense of achievement.  Steve did about three drains to my one but I am still learning the art.  We stopped for a coffee and admired the views to Great Gable and Kirk Fell.  Although the sun was shining, Great Gable seemed always to hold cloud on its summit like a cloud factory was at work churning out big white fluffy clouds that were then taken on beyond the valley.  The red screes of Hell Gill on its slopes looked uninviting but striking.

Cloud factory on Great Gable

Waterfall at the top of Piers Gill

Onwards we went and after a short steep scramble (here I confess I did not have my shovel) reached the deepest and most vertical-sided part of Piers Gill.  I was brave enough to lean over (whilst kneeling) to take a photo but you really cannot get the real feel for how magnificent if daunting it is from the photos.  People have on occasions had serious accidents and even died in the ravine thinking it is a path.  It is no place for walkers – there is no path and it is dangerous.

On reaching the top of Piers Gill (and being given my shovel back to clear more drains) we headed down to meet Iain and Barry and help finish that section of path.  Lunch was below the summit of Lingmell with Scafell Pike behind and Great Gable in front.  Having kept my jacket clean all day whilst clearing muddy drains, I promptly spilt coffee on it.  A handy tarn cleaned it up quite well though.  

Pulpit Rock & Scafell Crags

We headed to Lingmell Col and Mickleden so I could see the work planned for that area, which is understandably one of the busiest as people try and reach the summit of the highest mountain in England.  The Three Peak Challenge (where people climb Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon) has increased this traffic.  

On the route we headed to the foot of the Pulpit Rock and Scafell Crags, which are both vertical rugged cliff faces with areas of shattered scree.  To the right was the start of the Lord’s Rake ascent to Scafell.  This is a route I really want to try, although it looks pretty challenging!  After clearing another drain or two, we headed back down (shovel on the left, on the right, swinging – honestly how should I carry it?).  On the lower slopes, the path crosses a large gill (and given the recent rain it was pretty wide and fast-flowing) where only boulders stand between you and being carried down the river.  Steve and Iain hopped across nimbly and then pretended to be inspecting a piece of path so as not to put me off my crossing.  Not so the group of five guys on the bank behind who I knew would be watching my crossing attempt.  The reason I knew is because I would have been watching too if I was sitting there!

Lingmell Gill

I cautiously made my way to the middle of the gill but then there was a really long step to the next rock.  I looked around in earnest for an alternative but did not find one.  It had to be this rock. It looked slippery.  I felt the eyes of the people behind still on me and looked down the river to where I would end up if I did indeed fall in.  It could be anywhere – depends what rock I got wedged behind.  Then I found a use for my shovel that meant I cared no longer how heavy it was.  I stuck it firmly between smaller rocks under the water and leaned on it to get across the big step.  Hurrah!  Success!

Looking down to Wastwater

It was a great day.  Hard work but a great team and I will always love going out on the fells to help fix them.  I just need someone to invent a lightweight shovel (with a pink handle please!)

Tilly on Tour: The Lake District

"I have been a good girl & deserve a chip"

Tilly is a five year old black Labrador and I love her.  She has a glossy coat and brown eyes that melt your heart (particularly when you have food!)  Sadly she does not belong to me but I look after her from time to time and she came on holiday for two weeks to visit me in the Lake District recently.  It was her first time in the Lakes so I just had to share her best moments.

On day one of her visit, Tilly joined me at a volunteer meeting for “Fix the Fells” at Basecamp and as she had to sit outside the meeting room she cried the whole time and every time I spoke the volume of crying increased.  I am not sure whether she was pleased to hear my voice or just knew there were KitKats inside and wanted one of those.  I suspect the latter.

Tilly in the muddy drain

After the meeting we all headed off to spend the rest of the day repairing a dry stone wall near the shores of Lake Windermere.  No one had briefed Tilly on the principles of “repair” however and with other dogs to play with she went gambolling around and kept leaping over the wall and knocking stones off!  Then she ran underneath it through the drain and covered herself (and me) in a lot of mud!  If demolishing stone walls had been the object she would have been first class.  All credit to the volunteers here, particularly Heather, as they took it all in their stride. 

"Supervising" the work of Fix the Fells

Meeting Hamish - another Fix the Fells supervisor

At the end of the day, Tilly decided to play in a muddy drain but as we walked back to the vehicles she had a swim in the lake, which got rid of a lot of the mud I am pleased to say as it was my car I was taking her home in!  However, between the site and Basecamp we were transported by a National Trust van.  Tilly decided rather than sit in the footwell she would sit on the back seat so promptly leapt into the footwell then onto the seat and sat there in the middle of the seat looking ahead and wondering why we were all taking so long to get in.  Oh dear.  One large, wet and stubborn dog on the backseat and me in charge of her!  With a lot of wrestling (and much laughter by the volunteers) I managed to get her back into the footwell (and then my penance was to sit on the wet backseat!)  An end to an eventful first day.

Tilly after a swim in Angle Tarn (waiting for a sandwich)

Mistress of all she surveys on Angletarn Pikes summit

Now for fell-walking.  I decided to ease Tilly into mountains as she is southern like me and we are not used to big hills down there.  Her first summit was Silver How (a low fell near Grasmere) and she seemed to enjoy it - especially the treats she was given at the top.  Her first swim in a tarn was in StickleTarn.  She loved the ghyll and cascades on the way up and looked like she would have been happy to stay in the tarn all afternoon.  Rain stopped play however and we headed back down.

After the initial climbs Tilly really found her mountain paws.  I took her up Angletarn Pikes where on the summit her ears were flapping in the breeze as she looked out across the view – mistress of all she surveyed.  We went onto Angle Tarn and she swam for ages and kept wanting to get back in.  Of course when I started eating my sandwiches all thoughts of water were gone and she just wanted to eat!  Those soulful eyes meant I caved in and shared them.  She skipped up Whinlatter Fell, walked around Tarn Hows and explored Rydal Caves.

Ascending Causey Pike

Her biggest mountain achievement though was the route up Causey Pike, Scar Crags and Sail from the tiny hamlet of Stair.  We went up the Gamlin End route to Causey Pike and did the proper rocky route to the summit.  With the odd bunk-up and steadying hand (for Tilly not me) we emerged on the summit unscathed and proud of ourselves.  From there we just kept going and took in Scar Crags and up the path to Sail.  I think Tilly could have managed Eel Crag as well but it was a long return walk already so we headed back.  She was scampering after flies and cascades right until the end.

On the shores of Thirlmere

Tilly’s biggest walking achievement was walking around Thirlmere.  It is about 11 miles and she did not bat an eyelid – just loved every swimming opportunity, loved meeting other dogs on the route and of course, loved the coffee and lunch breaks (do not look directly at the eyes!)

We have also toured the local hostelries.  Tilly’s list includes the Drunken Duck, Mill Inn at Mungrisdale, Sticklebarn Tavern, Wainwright’s at Chapel Stile, Wilf’s Cafe in Grasmere (where an Australian couple took a photo of her to send back to their family in Perth – yes, she is now international), Tweedies in Grasmere and the Dog and Gun in Keswick.  Her favourite was the Dog and Gun as they have treats you can buy for dogs at the bar.

Eyeing up a sandwich.....

Spending time in the National Trust office in Grasmere she promptly won the hearts of everyone who saw her and sat so quietly and was so well-behaved that it was hard to imagine her as the same dog that was leaping stone walls and being wrestled into the footwell.

At the Drunken Duck

I loved having Tilly around.  It was nice to walk with her on the fells and see her enjoy swimming in tarns and lakes.  The eyes always got me however – she perfected the “I have been a really good girl, I deserve a chip” look for sure.  I am hoping she returns for another visit soon – I miss Tilly!

Friends, Gables & Tarns

I have been made to feel very welcome in the Lake District and made many new friends in my first few weeks.  Gina and her husband Dave are two of them and through knowing Gina (a social butterfly who makes legendary chocolate brownies) I joined a Twitter walking group on a Sunday morning in July to climb Green Gable and Great Gable.  A “tweet-up”!  I had the advantage of a lift from Grasmere with Gina, Dave and Si and we met Ray (our route master), Phil, Bruce, Gary and Ray’s dog Holly (‘The Beast’) in Seathwaite, Borrowdale.

Sour Milk Gill

Seathwaite is the wettest inhabited place in England (there is even a slate sign highlighting this) and there is even a cottage there called “Rain Gauge Cottage”.  Given the recent weather, this did not bode well but as we started it was warm and there were no rain clouds apparent although the tops were a bit misty so we headed off and straight up the steep Sour Milk Gill path full of anticipation for the walk ahead.

Gina & Me - Seathwaite Valley behind

I have never claimed to be the fastest walker in the world (and there are plenty who can vouch for that) but as it turns out, I think I just may be the slowest walker ever!  The route up the Gill was steep and I had to stop often for a breather (I mean to take photos) whilst most of the others powered ahead with Gina leading the way.  Ray and Phil kept me company and gallantly tried to make it look as though it was not just me being slow.  There were lovely views of the Gill and the valley below however so stopping to look at them was totally acceptable and thank goodness Holly decided to go for a swim in the Gill at one point (a good photo/breather opportunity).  I did eventually get to the top of the steep part and the views to the valley were superb– this is why the pain of ascent is worth it and I love the photo of Gina and me.

The first fell was to be Green Gable and the route took us along the Gillercomb path.  I was still bringing up the rear and trying to avoid being captured in too many of Phil’s photos looking exhausted and having a bad hair day (not the look I aspire to in photos).  Gina and Dave started sprinting (yes sprinting) up the last part of the ascent to Green Gable (I will gloss over my thoughts about that other than to say we possibly have the wrong people in our Olympic team) and before long we had arrived at our first summit, which was free of cloud.  There were excellent views down to the surrounding valleys including Buttermere and Mellbreak (one of my favourite fells) and great views of the closer fells even though the tops of them were hidden in cloud.

Great Gable & Green Gable on a sunnier day

One of the recurring themes given my new role in Fix the Fells was everyone commenting on path erosion and where the Fix the Fells teams needed to focus next.  Seems like we are going to be pretty busy!  It was great everyone was so supportive of the work though and I apologise if I bored everyone to tears with my new knowledge of erosion, path maintenance and techniques to repair paths but I am sure somebody asked at some point and I feel very enthusiastic about it (as you may have gathered)….  And thank you Dave for not placing that large stone on the summit cairn as I think I would have struggled to move it back despite my statement to the contrary!

Summit of Great Gable (photo by @goldenorfephoto - Phil)

Sadly Great Gable was in cloud and that was where we were headed next.  Positions restored (yes I was last again) we made the descent to Windy Gap and then up the steep scramble amongst the rocks and scree to the summit of Great Gable.  Phil had given up waiting for me and it was left to Ray to give me encouragement to the top.  But we made it! 

We sat on Great Gable in the cloud and had lunch followed by Gina’s amazing chocolate brownies.  Word had obviously got around as two guys arrived at the summit and were also fed brownies.  After reapplying lipstick (Phil will no doubt share that photo at some point) we set off down to the stretcher box (named because it does indeed hold stretchers) near Styhead Tarn.  At the stretcher box we decided to take the longer route back via Sprinkling Tarn and Grains Gill.  I must have got my second wind as I led from the front and did not hold up anybody.  In fact, I found myself in the group waiting for others to arrive!  (What kept you guys?)

Piers Gill

Sprinkling Tarn

The route between Styhead Tarn and Sprinkling Tarn is amongst some of the most rugged fells and scenery.  The deep, dark cavern of Piers Gill on the slopes of Lingmell, the rock massif of Great End towering above us and the bouldery slopes of great Gable behind combined with the gentle grassy mound of Seathwaite Fell.  It is an area I love as it looks magnificent.  Sprinkling Tarn always looks beautiful and the walk down Grains Gill, which I have not done for many years, was just a joyous ramble. 

It was great talking to everyone as well.  It is amazing how much you can have in common with people you have not met before when you share a love of something – in our case, walking the fells.  We ended our day with a drink at the Langstrath Inn where I confess I had half a bitter shandy – sorry…you can take the girl out of the south but not the south out of the girl….  A great day and some great new friends – thanks for arranging it Gina (and thanks for waiting for me Ray).

Slate Sign in Seathwaite

Girl From the South Heads North Episode 2

I still wear heels I promise!

Hard though it is to believe, I have been in the Lake District for over a month! For those friends in Kent and Sussex who think I have lost my love of heels, let me assure you I have not.  Heels have been worn for board meetings, office days and social events. My floral shoes and black patent leather heels have had the most outings (spotty Dune shoes will be making an appearance in the near future).

Cascade on Tongue Gill (before I caught up!)

Back to the outdoors though and my first day with some of the Fix the Fells volunteers on Seat Sandal.  I had an early start in Kendal so had to catch them up.  This was a bit optimistic given my hiking speed (as some of you know) so I actually did not arrive until lunchtime where they were waiting patiently for me as I collapsed in a tired heap in front of them (hardly the professional look I was going for but by then I was just glad they were still on the mountain).  After a brief respite, I was handed a shovel to get stuck into the work of clearing the path drains of stone and mud to keep them flowing, removing any loose stones from the stone-pitching and generally anything that helps maintain the path and avoid erosion.

The volunteers do a wonderful job and Fix the Fells would not be possible without their support and commitment.  They made me feel very welcome and I learnt a lot that day.  They were also very gracious waiting for me on the steep final ascent of Seat Sandal, where my “view stops” were essential and when they carried my shovel down the mountain as I had forgotten it (yes I am afraid it is true - so much for my plans to make a good first impression!)

Alfie on the Gondola

Later that week, the weather forecast predicted heavy rain and storms so what better time to join some of the volunteers again out in Coppermine Valley near Coniston to repair one of the busy footpaths?  When I arrived, the first thing I saw was Hamish the West Highland White dog in his jacket sitting under a large golfing umbrella to escape the rain and another dog, Alfie, playing in puddles.  After toying with the idea of joining Hamish under the umbrella in his “supervisory role”, I spied a mattock (variation on a pickaxe) and got to work moving turf and rocks and collecting stones.  The rain was heavy and as I was filling another bucket with stones, a deep rumble of thunder rolled over the mountain side and the sky lit-up with a flash of lightning.  I looked at everyone else thinking it seemed a good time to make a run for it and they were still working so I kept going.  The thunder got closer and before long the sky opened up and the rain just bucketed down.  Within seconds I was soaked through, the path had become a river and everyone downed their metal tools (not sensible equipment in lightning) and we fair sprinted down the mountain (except Hamish, who was carried – honestly I am missing a trick here somewhere) and piled into the 4x4 vehicle to get back down to Coniston, amongst the swirling rivers, mudslides and floods.

My appearance caused much amusement in the office at Boon Crag as I had set out dry and wearing lipstick and returned very soggy with my hair forming a new style never seen before (and not to be seen again).  It was a great day in spite of the rain but the credit goes to the volunteers who braved the elements and who have been back up on the fells since - they certainly are not “fair-weather” volunteers that is for sure!

Wray Castle

My volunteer induction did not stop there.  The following week I was out at Basecamp at High Wray meeting a group of volunteers from the Community Drug Outreach Trust who were spending the day working on the Windermere shore path near Wray Castle.  This has become a popular route and a path is being created to stop the grass getting muddy and unwalkable.  It is a beautiful area and Wray Castle is also beautiful.  Basecamp is a residential volunteer centre working with people from all walks of life and the volunteer groups work closely with the Fix the Fells team.

Believe it or not that's me at the back!

Turning up in my pink t-shirt and waterproof jacket and cream walking boots (well I am what I am!) I was pointed towards the industrial strength black waterproofs and black steel toe-capped wellies (well if it protects the toe-nail polish it is worth it!)  Kitted-up (pink lipstick stayed on) we headed to Wray Castle and started work.  We split into two teams – one to dig turf, build the bank and clear the route for the path, the other to move the piles of gravel by wheel barrow to finish the path.  I was in the gravel team.  Before long, we had got into a great routine filling wheel barrows with shovels and emptying them on the path.  I confess that in spite of the high energy levels from the volunteers, I found all the shovelling tiring so I decided to take a turn at pushing the wheel barrow, which looked a lot easier.  This lasted a good few minutes until I realised it was actually much harder so I returned to shovelling (I know my place).

Enjoying the sunshine on the shores of Windermere

Progress was swift in spite of the rain coming and going and we were all having a great time.  On finding a large rock in the way of the path my stone-pitching day came back to me and I was determined to shift it.  I failed and it took about four guys to get it onto the side of the path (I was a little optimistic in my ability).  As we were finishing, the sun came out and we all paddled in Lake Windermere in our wellies before heading back to the Castle.  A great day with a really inspiring group of people that I feel privileged to have met.

Celebrating the path we made!

I cannot praise the work of the Fix the Fells volunteers highly enough.  Their commitment, skill and knowledge is a key part of the success of the Fix the Fells programme and I look forward to continuing to work with them and the rangers over the coming months.  I thank them for making me feel so welcome and sharing their expertise.