Saturday 5 May 2012

The Valley of Holly & Carrock Beck


A snowy Blencathra in the setting sun
I have climbed Blencathra several times including on an A-Level Geography trip when I stayed at the Blencathra Centre.  This was before I got the fell-climbing bug so I was not very enthusiastic about it, particularly when we had to have a two hour class lesson after we got back down.  I cannot remember a thing from that lesson (other than doing complicated maths in your head is a good way to stay awake – sounds odd but I had to think of something as I was pretty sure my teacher had noticed my head keep falling forwards) but I decided I should give the mountains in that area another visit.  So in March 2011 I planned a walk to include Bowscale, Bannerdale Crags, Mungrisdale Common and Souther Fell.

Looking down the Valley of Holly
Bannerdale Crags
It was a beautiful day, although cold and I was looking forward to a great day walking.  The first half of Bowscale was fairly easy and I thought all that work in the gym in the previous weeks had paid off as I must be fitter. Or so I thought.  The second half was much steeper and I needed frequent view stops!  I confess that I did have the occasional “I could be sitting by a beach in Barbados” thought but pushed them to one side and kept going.  Bowscale did not disappoint.  The views from the top were wonderful.  As I have referred to in part one and part two of my ridge route blogs, once you are on the top of a mountain, you can walk for miles as you have already done a lot of the hard work.  Such was the case to Bannerdale Crags – a simple high level stroll with striking views of Blencathra (the route up to that summit looked pretty steep so I was pleased it was not on my list for the day).

Holly from High Dam near Windermere
I often look up the meaning of the names of fells as some of them are fascinating.  I do not think the word “Bannerdale” is particularly attractive but I think its meaning is.  The word “banner” means “holly” and “dale” is “valley” therefore Bannerdale is the “valley of holly” and Bannerdale Crags would be “the crags in the valley of holly”.  I think a valley of holly sounds simply lovely (if a little prickly).  That said, I saw no holly at all, which was also the case when I climbed from Hartsop, which means “The valley of the deer” and did not see any deer!

The next mountain was Mungrisdale Common.  Now here I need to be clear that in my view, Mungrisdale Common is not a mountain.  It is a flat, marshy, dull plateau with no redeeming features.  It was exhausting to get to because of the marsh and was simply not worth the effort.  It has made it onto my list of “fells never to climb again” and the only other one on that list is Armboth Fell (I will write about that another time).  Yes it was that bad.  Wainwright said it is a place best left to shepherds and sheep.  He was right and I suspect was having a joke at our expense when he decided to include it in his “Northern Fells” pictorial guide.

Sharp Edge on Blencathra from the path to Souther Fell
However, once I had escaped from the non-mountain I headed down a beautiful valley with a cool blue stream catching the sun as it meandered its way down between the fells.  Looking back I could see Sharp Edge - one of the famous narrow ridges in the Lake District that rivals Striding Edge. My final fell of the day was Souther Fell, which was a fabulous mountain and even though my legs were tired, it was a great climb, passing an area called Mousthwaite Comb (another fabulous name).  There is an interesting story about Souther Fell.  Legend has it that in 1745 several witnesses saw a line of soldiers, horses and carriages marching across Souther Fell, but when they went to look in the morning, there was no evidence of this presence – no foot prints or hoof marks.  The only solution offered was it having been some form of spectral or mirage caused by a reflection many miles away of the troops of Prince Charles marching on the West coast of Scotland.  Fascinating.

My route was now homeward bound and I headed off the fell back towards the village of Mungrisdale, where I had begun.  It was only a short route down according to my route planning but as I got to within a field of the Mill Inn and felt if I stretched I could almost touch it, the footpath veered to the right and it must have been nearly another half a mile to get back to the car!  My feet were tired and in spite of the fierce signs saying no footpath straight ahead, I did wonder whether anyone would notice if I hopped across the wall and through the field.  I have never been a rebel however and this act of disorder was too much for my conscience to bear so I dutifully followed the path to the right and the longer route round.  My drink at the Mill Inn was well deserved after nearly 12 miles and I sat with my feet up on the benches outside overlooking the stream.  

A couple of miles away from the Mill Inn is a beautiful stream called Carrock Beck.  It flows down Carrock Fell and crosses the road as it meanders on its way, creating a ford.  There is a footbridge across it and it is a wonderful place for a paddle (bare foot or wellies) and a picnic.  It is a little gem in my view and in the early afternoon when the sunshine catches the water and the cascades it looks as though someone has taken some of the stars from the sky and hidden them under the surface.  Of course I love the mountains but it is unexpected places like this, stumbled across by accident, that make the Lake District so special. 
Carrock Beck

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18 comments:

  1. great account of the trip Tanya , not keen on the red wellies though! lol

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    1. Ha! They are pink with cat footprints on them (you know my love of pink!) but the photo doesn't do them justice. Come the summer I will have a go at crossing the bridge in my spotty heels!
      Thanks for the comment :-)

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  2. Your reflection on the fact that you "could be sitting by a beach in Barbados” (as opposed to slogging forth in boots) struck a chord with me as often when I'm mud spattered, tired and (the worst of all) soaked in rain I do start to wonder why...just for a moment. Then something always happens - maybe a break in the weather or a breath taking view opens up or I simply meet someone en route and then I couldn't be anywhere better.

    Great read and mark my words - your comment has been logged.. "Come the summer I will have a go at crossing the bridge in my spotty heels!"

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    1. Thanks Karen! You are right - there is something always to make it worthwhile even when you are soaked!
      I promise I will get a photo of my heel-walk across the bridge in the summer.
      :-)

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  3. I love barbados will be back there this year come hell or high water.! Great read

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    1. Thanks :)
      I haven't been to Barbados but it is on my list when I stop being distracted by the Lake District!

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  4. Nice blog, once again. :-)

    Place names generally have interesting origins and often, can tell an interesting story about its original environment and history.

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    1. Thanks Mike!
      I have looked up many names over the years and it is fascinating to see where they stem from. For many of them there is not agreement even now.
      :-)

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  5. Lol about your A-level story! Great blog and photos - love the pink hat and I will definitely visit Carrock Beck :)

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    1. The A-level story I promise is true. I loved the Lake District back then but did not love climbing mountains (weather was awful too so now views even after all the effort which at 17 years old was too much to bear!)
      Pink features a lot in my clothing...just bought a pink summer hat (it has rained ever since)
      Thanks for the kind comment :-)

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  6. Another great Blog Tanya, I love reading them We have yet to do Mungrisdale :) we have visited the pub a few times for a meal, very nice.

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    1. Hi Sherran - that is really nice of you to say :)
      I have eaten at the pub as well and yes it is very nice. I would love to hear about your thoughts on Mungrisdale Common when you do it. Very mixed reviews of it! Haven't changed my opinion yet! :)
      Tanya

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  7. Carrock Beck looks lovely. I don't know how i missed it - I have lived in the Lakes for years!
    Great blog.

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    1. Thanks Richard - well it is a bit out of the way and I have missed plenty of fab parts of Kent and Sussex before someone has told me about them :)

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  8. R. GreenhowMay 12, 2012

    A very good account of this group of fells. The group is reminiscent of the dales in nature, not the craggy Borrowdale volcanic rock series of the central belt, though the contrast in nature of these high rounded fells and open plains to the east and north is stunning. The walk can also be extended by adding in the full 'saddle' of Blencathra (aka Saddleback). Bowscale also hides a tarn in the corrie on it's northern face and worth a trip from the hamlet of Bowscale in it's own right. I made me smile to see you had the same feeling oif suprise to see the 'end' in sight yet find out it was so far away. I took that shortcut the first time though subsequent walks I've been a good boy and kept to the path. Drinking outside atThe Mill Inn is beautiful and deserves this mention. An excellent account to introduce walkers to this group and relatively quiet in comparison to other areas. Thanks for advertising this gem area of the lakes.

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    1. Thanks Ray :)
      I know so little about the Dales - somewhere to explore in the future as I have heard so many positive things about them.
      I did see the tarn (went to that side of Bowscale) but I was not as "snap-happy" then so I did not take a photo...a good reason to go back!
      One of my next challenges is climbing Sharp Edge and then going back down the saddle of Blencathra - I have high expectations of that route.
      The end of the footpath was infuriating! But he pub made it all worth it :)
      Tanya

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  9. Bob Eaves.May 28, 2012

    Hi Tanya, Just came across your blog whilst Googling Carrock Fell and High Pike with a descent down Carrock Beck. Hope to do this walk this week and to include Blencasthra. Enjoyed the blog as always and great photos. Cheers.....Bob.

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  10. Thanks Bob. I think I would include Blencathra next time as well and avoid Mungrisdale Common...it looked a steep climb to the summit but an interesting one.
    Tanya

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