Sunday 29 July 2012

A Lake, Cave & Tumble


Brothers Water
I have been fascinated to see photos of a cave on the slopes of Dove Crag called the “Priests’ Hole” as the photos from inside show extensive views across mountains and valleys beyond and the cave itself looks eerie.  It is marked on Ordnance Survey maps and I was determined to go and see if for myself. 

Cascade on Dovedale Beck
After consulting an expert I had my route planned, starting at the small lake called Brothers Water near the village of Hartsop.  Brothers Water used to be called Broad Water but the name was changed in the 19th century when two brothers tragically drowned there.  The sister of the famous Lakeland poet William Wordsworth, Dorothy Wordsworth (a poet in her own right) referred to it as a “glittering, lively lake” and that is just how it looked as I walked along the path beside it with tree branches hanging over.

Taking time to admire the flora (view stop)
The walk up the valley towards Dove Crag was beautiful with the rippling streams and many cascades of Dovedale Beck and the imposing crags getting closer.  It was a lovely place to be that day.  The gentle incline after a couple of miles turned into a steep final ascent to the cave however!  From a distance, it did not look like a route was possible up the scree slope but fortunately an old stone-pitched path was still in existence and whilst it did not lessen the gradient, it did make for easier climbing.  The path to the cave is off from the main path and an erratic boulder marks the spot to turn off and you can see the mouth of the cave from there.  A short scramble later and I had arrived at the cave.

"Priest's Hole" Cave
Looking from the Jaws of the Cave
It was just as striking as I had imagined with the dark jaws of the cave leading to views down the valley and across the fells that were every bit as lovely as I had hoped.  Even though it was a bit cloudy, it was mesmerising.  Having mastered the timer on my camera, I even managed to include myself in one of the photos.  The cave is natural but a stone wall has been constructed over part of the front for additional shelter.  There was evidence of camping activity inside such as candles and some matting but it was all neatly stacked and someone had also left a book for people visiting the cave to sign – I signed on the very back page as the rest of it was full.  Mission accomplished!

However, I decided to continue the walk onto Dove Crag summit and as I could not see a clear route from where I was, I dropped back down to the main path near the boulder.  After Dove Crag I headed to Hart Crag which was only a short distance away.  Both these fells are part of the Fairfield Horseshoe and I had not been on them since the “Mystery of the Rucksack” incident back in February!  The sun even started to emerge as I sat on Hart Crag having lunch and whilst it was cold for July, it was a great day for walking.  I headed off over the fell Hartsop Above How.  This is not one of the most frequented fells in the Lake District but the ridge route over the top is gentle and there are excellent views of the surrounding crags and valleys and down into Hartsop.

View Down the Valley
The final part of my route took me off the side of Hartsop above How to return to the shores of Brothers Water on a grassy path.  This was the most straightforward part of the walk.  Or so I thought.  However, I lost the path.  The map and GPS said there was a right of way where I was but there was certainly no path – just a lot of bracken!  I could just about see another path further down the slope so putting thoughts of bugs and snakes to one side, I decided to head through the thick bracken to the path.  This was a mistake as when I took my first step, I tripped over a rock I had not seen and fell forward in what was actually a rather graceful roly poly movement and ended up a few feet further down my route than originally intended with bracken in my hair and sitting in a little muddy stream.  I sat there for a few minutes wondering what on earth had happened (but secretly impressed that I can still do a roly poly) and then managed to get up, brush myself down and join the actual path with a flick of the hair.  So much for glamorous walking!

Brothers Water & Surrounding Fells
The short walk to the car-park from there was uneventful (I am pleased to say) and after changing out of my rather wet and muddy trousers and removing the final traces of bracken from my hair, I headed off to Glenridding for a well-deserved drink.  A great walk but next time I will attempt to do it without the roly poly!
Hartsop

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16 comments:

  1. so funny Tanya , i must have a look at that cave someday:)

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    1. Thanks Phil - wasn't quite how I intended to get down that part of the mountain but it was effective! Well worth a visit to the cave...
      :-)

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  2. R. GreenhowJuly 30, 2012

    An excellent account of a good walk. The erratic referred to is as good a dramatic shot as the cave is and well worth a visit to others. I'm pleased you enjoyed it, including the tumble. These things happen. I may make a revisit there today with a colleague who hasn't seen it.

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    1. Thanks Ray.
      Definitely a place I will go back to visit. A really mysterious place :-)

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  3. Yet again another great read ,will visit cave when I can love the spirit of your photos

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  4. Heelwalker1July 30, 2012

    Thanks Peter. Do visit the cave - it is a really special place. The weather was kind to me that day so managed to get a lot of photos. I am heading back up on a day with clear blue sky though!
    Tanya :-)

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  5. Nice picture taken from inside the cave.. I'm glad you found the cave tidy! I've heard tales of it not being too pleasant in the past....
    Your trip sounded fun too, next time send me a postcard...

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    1. Ha! I will send a postcard (although hope not too many trips feature!)
      It was tidy...even a Mars Bar left for the next hiker in search of sustenance!
      :-)

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  6. I think Roly-Polys should be an Olympic sport Tanya! Another funny and entertaining tale of your walking adventures.

    I just love that photograph of you looking out of the cave at that stunning landscape.
    And the caption is great too: Looking from the Jaws of the Cave. Great stuff.

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    1. I agree Chloe! I would put myself forward as I have talents I did not know I possessed!
      You would love the cave - really haunting and eerie...the jagged edges really do look like jaws. I have been meaning to go for a while and so glad I did :-)

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  7. Great blog. I was there a week ago. We were almost put off by the climb to the cve but it's much easier than it looks.

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    1. Thanks Paul
      It doesn't look inviting I agree...just a bit of a scramble in a couple of places though.
      Worth the effort...
      Tanya :-)

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  8. Loving the blog Tanya and look forward to the book ! New (and beautiful) surroundings and job but same spirit. Inspiring me to take up walking. Love Lynda x

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  9. Hi Lynda - thanks :-)
    I love walking wherever I am. Sussex and the Lakes are special to me though.
    Happy walking if you take it up!
    Tanya x

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  10. i walked over dove crag last weekend while walking the fairfield horseshoe and i noticed the 'priest hole' on my map, wish i'd have ventured down there now for a look!

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    1. heelwalker1August 10, 2012

      It is definitely worth a look. There is a new book to sign there now as well :)

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