Saturday 14 April 2012

Castle Crag


Castle Crag is the lowest of the Wainwright fells standing at only 951 feet and therefore you would think would be an easy stroll.  In my view however, this little fell has character that some of the larger fells can only aspire to.  There are streams, crags, rocky paths, steep stiles, scree-like slate slopes, memorials and a history that is fascinating.  I climbed it first in June 2011 and then several times since (once being in August 2011 with a large family, but that is a story for another day) from the lovely hamlet of Grange in Borrowdale.  Grange is such a pretty hamlet situated just over a double stone bridge on the river Derwent  and has wonderful tea rooms for when you have finished any local climbs (or indeed to provide sustenance in advance!)
Castle Crag

The walk takes you along a path next to one of the tea rooms and towards the River Derwent at the foot of Castle Crag.  There is plenty to hold you up here as the river, especially on a warm day, looks extremely inviting and I confess I have paddled in it on several occasions (I will add at this point that one of those occasions was by accident when I was looking too much at the beautiful surroundings and not where I was putting my feet and consequently slipped off the rocks and into the river – please note that paddling is best done after removing your boots!)  On this day (a dry boot day) the sound of the water rushing over the rocks, catching the sun as though there were a thousand stars just below the surface and the deep green leaves hanging overhead from lazy trees was superb.  Yet another of those “good to be alive” moments.  

There is a clear path up to the right of Castle Crag through a gate and after a short walk you bear left up the slopes of the fell.  This is where it gets steep and rocky amongst the trees and you think you should be on the slopes of one of the much higher fells!  At the top of this steep part you cross a stile and end up in a clearing that opens up views further into Borrowdale.  It is an unexpected little haven.  On each of the occasions I have climbed this fell there have been primary school parties making the same journey.  It is wonderful to watch the reaction of the children when they see this area – the “wows” and “oohs” are plentiful.  When I was that age I think I was more one for phrases such as “are we nearly there yet” and “this is sooo steep” and actually had not improved my comments much when I did an A-Level Geography trip to the Blencathra Centre when I was 17 years old! 

Slate Path
After enjoying the views from the clearing, I started the next part of my ascent and this is where the history of the fell starts to become clear.  Castle Crag has been mined extensively and you can see the scars of this activity at various points on the walk.  At this point on the fell there is what looks like a vast slate rock fall but actually if you look carefully, is a slate path up towards the top of the fell.  At a glance it looks an impossible task but it is well crafted on closer inspection and besides, if parties of school children could do it, so could I!  I did make sure I was looking where I was putting my feet this time that is for sure!

As you emerge from the slate path just below the summit, you are met by a mini Stonehenge.  The story goes that someone for some reason (and no one really knows who or why although there are variations) has arranged pieces of slate in various upright positions surrounded by other pieces of slate – like little slate islands in a sea of green grass.  It is really eerie.  Apparently sometimes they are knocked down yet someone takes the time to rebuild them.  Who and why?  Fascinating and very mysterious!
A climb of a few more feet gets you to the summit where there is a War memorial forming part of the cairn.  The views down into the valley and back towards Keswick and Derwent Water are stunning especially for such a low fell.  You are captured by the majesty and pride of a mountain that is small but feisty and should not be underestimated. 

Summit Rock & Cairn
The first part of the route down on the opposite side of the fell is totally different to the ascent.  It takes you over grassy slopes, through woods and next to streams.  There is less evidence of the scars of mining but there are plenty of quarries, crags and caves to explore.  One of the caves was occupied for many years in the summer by a hermit called Millican Dalton, who died in 1947.  He started occupying the cave at the age of 36 and became a climbing guide.  He has left the words “Don’t waste words.  Jump to conclusions” engraved inside.  

Emerging back at the paddling area, after climbing this fell I was left feeling I had conquered something much grander than I had expected and with so much character that I have been back to it several times.  As I said at the beginning, some of the higher fells can only aspire to have the character and history of Castle Crag and it may be small but it is a cracking fell.
Clancey the beautiful Lurcher on the summit

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26 comments:

  1. It'a a lovely walk Tanya, I really enjoyed it when we did it. I love Millican Daltons cave.A great commentary as always.

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    1. Thanks Sherran
      I am looking forward to doing it again as soon as I am up there. Hope my Mum and Dad will venture onto it as they haven't climbed a fell for a while.
      Tanya

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  2. I agree, its a great little walk great views and really nice location.by the way grat blog

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    1. Thanks Peter - I love Grange as well...there are great tea shops and Borrowdale as a whole is beautiful :)

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  3. Will look forward to doing this Tanya - thanks for the insight!
    Paul
    (Barry_the_Cat)

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    1. No problem at all! You will not be disappointed :-)
      Thanks for commenting
      Tanya

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  4. I love the words about stars under the surface of the river. You really capture how things look and feel. Such a talent. Looking forward to your book.

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    1. Thanks Janet - that is such a nice comment! Details of the book will follow... :-)

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  5. This will definitely be the walk I do when I start my fell walking career. You have made the whole walk sound so enticing.

    Like Janet I just loved your description of that "good to be alive" moment and the "lazy trees".

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    1. Thanks Chloe! I would recommend it as a first fell - either that one or Loughrigg, which is also lovely. I am impressed you are thinking of it....!
      Thanks for the comment :-)

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  6. Another great post Tanya. I was delighted to hear about you completing the Wainwright's recently and completing a book. I have watched your progress with pleasure in the last 6 months.
    Alan

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  7. Thanks for saying that Alan...it has been a real learning curve in the last 6 months but I am really pleased with how people have responded to my blog (hope I have the same response to the book!) and am very happy to have completed the Wainwright's...hurrah!
    Let's see what the next 6 months brings...
    Tanya :)

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  8. Excellent Tanya, you have certainly done Castle Crag proud in this piece. I really loved the description of the River Derwent. Maggie

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    1. Thanks Maggie...I love how the sunshine catches water...especially when it is running over rocks. Sounds and looks heavenly :)

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  9. Okay... I know. I'm late. lol I should know better and ignore my hectic life and read about your hiking. Have to tell you that slate path looked perilous from my perspective. Mostly it looks slippery and I'd probably slid down the side. ;) Loved the cairn & mini Stonehenge elements. Thank you for sharing!

    ~ Aithne

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  10. No problem at all - appreciate you taking the time...I held on very firmly to the edges on the slate path I can assure you! A really lovely walk though... :-)

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  11. Erica LewisApril 18, 2012

    Never knew that about Millican Dalton. Fascinating. Great blog.

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    1. Thanks Erica
      A lot of fascinating history about various mountains in the Lakes...I find out more each time :)

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  12. I love that beautiful dog. Lovely post, Tanya!

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  13. Thanks Amberr! He is lovely...! Really want my own dog to walk the fells with :)

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  14. Greg WilliamsApril 27, 2012

    Great blog again. I wish you could write them more often!

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    1. Thanks Greg! I wish I could write them more often too! :)

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  15. R. Greenhow.May 02, 2012

    From a cumbrian and very frequent visitor to the Borrowdale valley, this is an excellent comment of this tremendous fell. It summarises the walk perfectly, highlighting what is a one of the fantastic spirit uplifting views you can have as a family walk. I used to miss this fell out enroute to the higher peaks, but one visit makes a memory that never fades. The author is quite right to have this as a 'stand alone' story, it requires no addition to make a it day to remember.

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    1. Wow! Coming from such an experienced fell-walker that is a real compliment. I am glad you think I have captured it well...I did not have high aspirations of Castle Crag before I climbed it but it captured me
      Thanks for such a lovely comment :-)

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  16. Thanks for posting this Tanya. Castle Crag is one of the fells I have on the list. I always have to have the terrain in mind as the rest of the family love walking but not so much the high scrambling types. This one sounds fine though.

    I'll have to get the map out and plan the route. If only the summer would arrive!

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  17. I am going to take my nephews up there in August in the hope there will be summer sometime! It will be their first fell ever!

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